The placing of a lei over a person’s head and on the shoulders is a sign of great respect and honor in the history behind the Hawaiian lei. The lei is a universally recognized icon of Hawaii and is inextricably tied up with the Hawaiian spirit of aloha.
In the Hawaiian tradition, leis were made of flowers, foliage, shells, feathers, nuts, seeds and sometimes even the bones and teeth of animals. Some believe that in the history behind the Hawaiian lei, these garlands were used as adornments of beauty, and perhaps also to establish rank in an ancient hierarchical society.
Early paintings show leis made of fruits, seeds, human hair and leaves. Early floral leis were probably made of native flowers such as the lehua, ilima and the flowers of the bou tree. With the arrival of the foreigner in Hawaii, many new floral species were brought into the islands in a relatively short period of time.
The beginnings of floral leis
Travelers and immigrants brought such flowers as roses, carnations, jasmine, gardenias, plumeria, violets, pansies and marigold in the years after 1850. The availability of these flowers opened a new chapter for Hawaiian lei makers in the history behind the Hawaiian lei.
They redesigned the original lei in favor of the floral lei. Growing tourism in the late 1800s prompted further changes in the craft of lei making. Between 1870 and 1950s in the history behind the Hawaiian lei, lei vendors were a common sight along the harbor front near Aloha Tower in Honolulu, selling leis to arriving and departing passengers. They would offer passengers a choice between paper or floral leis.
Boat Days
Old photos show passengers on the ocean liners heavily decked with floral leis. Somehow during this period of the “Boat Days”, a custom came about where departing visitors would throw their floral leis overboard.
This was prompted by the idea that doing so would ensure that the passengers would return to the island paradise. It was also felt that returning the lei to the islands was akin to returning some of the aloha that they had received during their stay.
There was yet another change in the history behind the Hawaiian lei. When commercial airplane services to Hawaii were introduced, the number of visitors increased exponentially. So did the number of lei makers and vendors.
Lei etiquette
There are a few rules in the history of the Hawaiian lei regarding giving and receiving a lei. The gift of a lei can never be refused and must be received with a hug and a kiss. A lei meant as a gift can only be worn by the person it is intended for. A lei is never to be removed in front of the person giving it to you.
These days, leis are given for any occasion, be it a birthday, wedding, graduation, a retirement, political rally or a state celebration. May Day in Hawaii is called Lei Day. As part of Lei Day celebrations, there is an important lei making competition which attracts lei makers from all over the islands who compete on making the best leis with only natural materials.
Lei making styles
There are several lei making styles. The kui lei is the design most known to tourists and is a technique where the flowers are strung end to end. This style is commonly used for leis made from roses, plumeria, kou and ilima.
The other lei styles are: -
- haku – a three-ply braid; the most intricate lei making design.
- hili – making a lei by plaiting or braiding a single material. When flowers are used, the technique is called a haku.
- hilo – intertwining two braids to make a lei.
- hipu’u – knotting the stems of the plant together. Various knots are used.
- humu – making a lei by sewing the flower or leaf to a backing such as paper, or luahala to give it stability. A bougainvilla lei is made using this method.
- wili – a corkscrew type of twist and is a generic name for two different methods. In the simple wili style, a piece of luahala or raffia braid is wrapped around the foliage. This is the style used for making the maile lei.
To each island its own lei
Did you know in the history behind the Hawaiian lei that each of the islands has its own special lei? They are : -
- Oahu - orange-yellow ilima
- Maui - pink rose.
- Big Island - the scarlet lehua flower
- Kauai - the fruit of the mokihana tree
- Molokai - silvery green leaves of the kukui tree
- Niihau - tiny white sea shells
- Lanai - orange strands from the kaunao plant
- Kahoolawe - leaves and flowers of beach heliotrope

