Visiting Kalaupapa

     Kalaupapa is on the island of Molokai and is a national park. If the name isn’t ringing a bell, let me add this bit of information; it was Hawaii’s leper colony from 1866 until 1969. Leprosy is a disease that has been around for at least 4,000 years. The name is from the Greek meaning fish scales.

     Leprosy is more properly known as Hansen’s disease can be very disfiguring and contagious, although there does appear to be a natural immunity. Today Hansen’s disease is cured with antimicrobial therapy and the patient is not contagious after about two weeks of treatment. But years ago when there was no cure, the only known solution was to isolate the patient. Leprosy was a slow death sentence.

      Kalaupapa is a peninsula on Molokai and it was chosen for the leper colony because of its relative isolation. Steep cliffs or Pali’s are on the leeward side of the peninsula that climb 2,000 feet from the base of the cliff and the rest of the peninsula is surrounded by the ocean. Delivery of patients and supplies were only practical in good weather due to the ocean conditions. It was truly isolated from the rest of the world.

     There was Hawaiian’s living in 2 villages on the peninsula when the decision was made to locate the leper colony here. The land was purchased and the Hawaiian inhabitants moved to another location. The first group of patients arrived in Kalawao one of the two villages in early 1866.

      Kalaupapa did provide a place to grow crops, fresh water and the tide pools to fish in. However, that must have been little comfort to folks that were ripped apart from their families forever. What a terrible time that must have been for both the people afflicted with Hansen’s disease and their families. How horrible to have a loved one alive that you could never visit or even talk to. Some who were not afflicted with the disease decided to go with their loved one to the colony. These folks were called kokua or helpers. What a brave decision that was. 

     The hope had been that the folks in the leper colony could sustain them selves with little to no help from the outside world. Housing had been left by the prior inhabitants along with fields for crops and an infrastructure. However, the inhabitants of the leper colony were sick and really needed to be treated as patients, instead of trying to establish a colony. Plus, the isolation and removal from their families broke down the normal social structures that keep a society stable. Lawlessness ensued, and living conditions went from bad to unbearable.

     Comfort did finally arrive with the coming of Father Damien. Father Damien was from the order of Congregation of the Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary. This brave Catholic priest worked tirelessly to improve the living conditions and to ensure a steady supply of goods from the rest of the world. Father Damien did not have Hansen’s disease when he went to the colony on Kalaupapa; but he did eventually develop and die from the disease. Father Damien was canonized October 11, 2009 for his work with those afflicted with Hansen’s disease. What a blessing he must have been!

     Unlike most national parks, this one has very restricted access. You must have a certificate of health from the Hawaii Department of Health or through Damien tours. No children under the age of 16 are allowed. There are tours available to go to the site, but they are not operated by the National Park Service.

     You can take a mule train from the summit to peninsula through a private company which is a NPS vendor. Part of the reason the area is still so restricted is there are still people who live in the community there. This is their home and as such, should be respected. Father Damien Tours (808-567-6171) is owned by a resident of the peninsula.

     As you can see, this is not the easiest of the National Parks to visit. There are severe restrictions placed on visiting times, and physically getting there is not as easy as jumping in the car and going for a ride. You have to make plans ahead of time to see this park. However, it is well worth the trip. It is a look back at not only a piece of Hawaiian history, but a piece of world history. Leper colonies still exist in the world even though this is now a treatable disease.